Istria in Croatia comes to mind mainly in connection with summer destinations, but Croatia is also an excellent choice for autumn recreation. Pula, Porec, Rovinj are deservedly the most visited cities on the peninsula, with the charming old towns and zigzag romantic streets. However, for all those who would like to get to know less popular small towns and villages, which do not attract visitors with the lot of shops and crowd of tourist, but rather with their special charm, this itinerary can provide useful informations.
Now I would like to share with you a special Istrian itinerary - with a detailed budget – which you cannot find in the offers of travel agents because these destinations are not really known:
(the detailed costs can be found at the end of the blog entry)
Fažana, the charming Croatian fishing village
While in summer this magical traditional village gets more interest, in autumn we can definitely enjoy the special atmosphere of the small seaside town without tourist crowds.
In the Roman age, the Romans loved this seasidevillage which is ideal for olive plantations. Later, one of the largest anchovy factory in Istria was established here.
If we like the long walks we can visit the village’s old town or harbor, and we can take walks along the long seaside promenade. In the small restaurants we can try local fish specialties.
Programmes:
-Trip to the nearby Brijuni Islands (Brijuni National Park), boats start four times a day (out of season), off-season ticket price: 125 Kuna = 17 EUR
Svetvincenat (21 km from Fazana)
Svetvinčenat, the medieval town, one of the jewels of Istria
The central Renaissance square of Svetnicenat is Plaça, which has been the place of community life since the 16th century, markets and church ceremonies were held here.
Church of the Annunciation
This church was built in the early 16th century with a Renaissance facade with ancient relics.
Svetvincenat, photo: Mario Fajt, flickr.com
Grimani-Morosini Castle
The Grimani stone castle, the best-preserved castle on the Istrian peninsula and the largest building in Svetvinčenat, stretches almost the entire northern side of Plaça. The castle was destination for merchants, soldiers, aristocracy guests, today attracts curious tourists.
Zminj (28 km from Fazana)
Zminj, photo: Miroslav Vajdic, flickr.com
If you are looking for a real medieval village with an authentic experience, Zminj will be the best choice. Important historical crossroads passed through the village thousand years ago.The village is really small, easy and fast to walk around, but it is worth a visit if you really would like an experience which is really autentic.
Zminj, photo: Miroslav Vajdic, flickr.com
Limski Kanal (57 km from Fazana)
Limski Kanal, photo: Lovro67, flickr.com
One of the most interesting natural attractions in Istria is between Rovinj and Porec, Limski Kanal is also known as Lim Bay. The fjord-like bay was taken this shape 10 million years ago ,when the sea pushed into the mainland, created the bay in this present form. There was a legend about he infamous Captain Morgain who loved to hide here and established a small settlement on the bay shore.
Limski Kanal, photo: James Stringer, flickr.com
Limski Kanal, photo: Perica, flickr.com
Currently, the bay is mainly famous for farmed mussels and fish.
If we don’t want to just hiking in the nature, we can go a boat trip, also. Few years ago there were guided tours to the Romuald Cave , but in year 2019 significant prehistoric cave paintings have been found here, so unfortunately the cave cannot be visited by tourists.
Pazin (45 km from Fazana)
Pazin, photo: Peter Collins, flickr.com
Pazin's old town has a truly stunning view, as it is located on a top of 130 meters high steep rock, above the Pazini Cave, at a depth of 100 meters on the side of the rocks, we can see the sinkhole of the stream which continues in the cave. The waterfall breaks between the rocks, this is the favorite natural spa of the locals in the summer months.
Interesting fact, that one of the novels of Jules Werne – the famous novel writer - takes place in the Pazin Cave.
Pazin, traditional ceremony, photo: Darij Zadnikar, flickr.com
Not far from Pazin we find Gračišće, which also offers an excellent opportunity for peaceful, contemplative walks.
Gračišće, photo: Peter Collins, flickr.com
Motovun (62 km-re Fazanatól)
Motovun, perhaps the most famous and attractive mediaeval small town, which was bulit on the top of the hill. The city view is dominated by the 13th-century Romanesque-Gothic bell tower and the Romanian-style City Palace in the central square.
It is definitely worth coming here out of season, so in the fall or spring, because this historical town attracts more tourists in the high season. If we arrive in low season, we can drive up to the lower town, where we can leave our car in the paid parking lot under the cemetery.
You can get to the top of the hill on a steep cobbled small street, and on the way there are many opportunities to buy local handicraft specialties (truffles, wines), and there are several art galleries in Motovun that can be visited.
Traditional food and drinks in Motovun:
- Fuži s tartufima: a heavenly combination of one of the most popular Istrian pasta dishes, traditional Istrian pasta (fuži) and the famous Istrian truffle
- Istarska malvazija: a wine made from a local Croatian white grape variety, dominated by fruity tastes
- Biska: traditional Istrian brandy from mistletoe
- Teran: traditional Istrian red wine
- Travarica: herbal spirit, made from the local herbs
Groznjan (17 km from Motovun)
Like Motovun, Groznjan was also built on a hilltop. This small town makes us feel like we have dropped into Italy, with narrow streets, charmingly crumbling Mediterranean buildings, small squares and terraces. Groznjan gives home the arts and music projects, so there are many exhibition halls here.
Buzet (25 km from Motovun)
Just like Groznjan, Buzet also has a very nice Tuscan atmosphere. Buzet is called the town of truffles, which grows in the forests around Buzet.
Buzet, photo: Alessandro Comuzzi, flickr.com
I recommend this Istrian tour not just the simple travellers, but also to the amateur and professional photographers, as these places offer a lot of interesting photo themes.
Cost calculation
This itinerary is for 2 persons.
Date: 05/11/2021-13/11/2021
Number of nights: 8
Accommodation costs (5 nights in Fazana) in apartment: 196 EUR-280 EUR (average 238 EUR)
Accommodation costs (3 nights in Motovun) in apartment: HUF 168 EUR-252 EUR (average 210 EUR)
Travel costs from Budapest: petrol: 1300 km (round trip): 123 EUR
Hungarian motorway fee for 10 days: 10 EUR, Croatian toll gate fees (from Budapest to Istria): 192 x 2 Kuna (25 EUR x2) = 50 EUR
Travel costs froom Budapest: total: 185 EUR
Travel time from Budapest, with breaks: 7 hours
(We can also travel by train from Budapest to Zagreb and from Zagreb to Pula by bus, than (in Pula) we have to rent a car, but this way together is not cheaper, but our travel time will increase)
Restaurant prices: 10 EUR – 17 EUR / person (one course)
Meals for 2 person, partly from a restaurant, partly from grocery stores, (sometimes cooking in the apartment) average 280 EUR / 8 days / 2 people
Total cost / 2 people: 945 EUR (travel cost, accomodation cost, meals and shopping (food) cost)
total cost / 1 person: HUF 472 EUR (travel cost, accomodation cost, meals and shopping (food) cost)
These costs can be reduce if 3 or more person travel in one car, or 3 or more person book one apartment.
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